This is what your septic tanks looks like. Its dimensions depend on the number of bedrooms (not Bathrooms) in your house. Generally, it measures approximately 8 feet long, 4 feet wide and 5/12 feet overall in height (liquid depth 4 1/2 feet. It can accommodate anywhere from 750 to 1550 gallons, depending on the code requirements of your local health authorities.

WHAT IT IS AND HOW IT WORKS

The septic tank primarily is a holding tank, generally made of concrete or fiberglass and usually holds the amount of waste that will flow from a house in a 24-hour period. This waste comes from the kitchen sink, laundry tub, washing machine, and bathrooms.

Some health departments insist that flows from washing machines go into a receptacle other than the septic tank. The reason is to avoid large surges going into the septic system. Also, some feel it is wise to keep harsh washing machine powders and bleach from adversely affecting the bacterial action in septic tanks.

There is a recent trend in areas where central sewer systems are overtaxed to divide the plumbing systems of homes into gray water and black water waste. Gray water waste consists of that waste which is not black water, e.g., washing machine, lavatories and shower stall runoff. Black waste is that which comes from toilets and garbage disposals. Under this process, the black water continues to be sent to the sewer plant, but the gray water is channeled to a septic tank system to be recycled directly into the ground.

The material going into the septic tank is divided into three general categories:
 

• Sludge That sinks to the bottom of the tank:
• Solid Waste (lighter in weight than water) that floats near the top of the tank:
• Water That fill the tank

The solid waste is decomposed by bacteria and is broken down into gas and liquids. The gas is released through the vent system of the house and the liquids ordinarily flow by gravity into the drainfield.

In theory, this process can go on indefinitely if the system is properly maintained, This maintenance will be discussed later.

Remember, the septic tank normally remains filled to its liquid top level in order to function properly.

A drainfield is a trench or bed excavated just beyond the septic tank to a sufficient depth to provide natural drainage for the effluent (the technical name of the partially treated liquid coming out of the septic tank)

The ability of the ground to absorb and treat the liquid is determined by the amount of design flow and the makeup of the soil in which the drainfield lies, Usually the more pervious the soil, the smaller the drainfield Often, impervious soil must be removed from the site and replaced with more suitable material. The depth of the drainfield is determined by the type of soil at various depths plus the elevation of the seasonal height water table. It is necessary to maintain a safe vertical distance between the bottom of the drainfield and the water table.

For aggregate type drainfield perforated pipes run the entire length of the drainfield over a bed of tiler media (usually rock or other type of course material) having a minimum depth of 12 inches. Poor soil conditions (impervious soil-much, marl or tight rock) may require the depth of the material to be substantially more than 12 inches.

If, under normal gravity conditions, it is impossible to maintain a safe distance (most authorities agree a minimum 24 inch separation to the seasonal high water table and 42 inches of suitable soil is necessary), pumps can be installed to raise the liquid into a mounded drainfield system. Mounds are drainfield higher in elevation than the surrounding lot ground. Mound systems must be sufficiently tapered on all sides to proven leaching or effluent. Solids are prevented from flowing from the septic tank to the drainfield by a baffle or a "T" on the inside of the outlet end of the tank. In theory, only liquids are removed from the septic tank in this why, thus recycling your household liquids back to the ground.

Research continues to design a more efficient baffle to minimize the amount of minute solid particles escaping into the drainfield Excessive solids in the drainfield can cause clogging of the media or soil and, eventually, lead to drainfield failure.

A two-bedroom house is designed for four persons or less. As a family continues to grow, bunk beds are put in a sun room converted into an additional bedroom. The septic system which originally was designed and installed to handle four person now is attempting to do the work for more individuals. It will do for a while but finally the work load overcomes it and the drainfield becomes saturated or the tank receives new solids faster than in can dispose of the old ones.
A septic tank fills to the outlet point within just a few days of being put into use. When you stop to consider that the average household of four will use approximately 200 gallons daily in baths and showers, clothes washing, cooking and toilet flushing, not to mention the countless other times per day what water is turned on and off, it becomes obvious that the tank fills quickly. Important parts of its job are the retention of solids and transfer of liquids to the drainfield, which has additional storage capacity and provides further treatment of the effluent by filtration and bacterial action in the surrounding soil.

Increasing the number of people (or waste going into the tank) by as little as 25 percent over an extended period of time is sufficient to overburden both the tank and dranfield. A faulty plumbing fixture such as a running toilet can force hundreds of gallons of wasted water to go through the tank and into the drainfield, thus causing saturation of the earth under the drainfield and failure of the system.

Residential clothes washing machines are often connected to septic tanks. Washing machines are responsible for the highest volume of water going out of your house at one time. Some of the more sophisticated, newer machines discharge as much as 65 gallons per cycle compared with a commode flush (two to five gallons). This is obviously can have a bad effect on your septic tank, especially if two or three washes are done consecutively and the system is overloaded. How can you use your washing machine and still not overtax your septic tank? The one thing you can do is to space your washings throughout the week, rather than several loads on just one or two days. Try not to do more than two loads per day and space them several hours apart. Another solution to washing machine heavy surges is the dual septic tank system (one for laundry water and one for black water waste, as discussed in a previous section).

If there is any one factor the causes more trouble in septic tanks and drainfields, it is grease. For one thing, the type of bacteria that lives, eats and multiplies in septic tanks does not thrive at all in solidified grease.
For another, all animal fats congeal or solidify at room temperature. You have no doubt had occasion to leave a pan on a stove temporarily after frying bacon, hamburgers, etc. As soon as the fat remaining the pan cools, it becomes a gray, solid mass.

This very same thing happens when the leftover fat is poured down the sink drain or into the garbage disposal. It begins to congeal in the sewer line on the way to the tank and a major portion of it forms a big solid chunk in the tank.

After successive deposits of geese over a period of months, the sewer line passage has become very constricted, if not closed up completely, and the tank now contains a tremendous mass of solid fat which cannot be converted by bacterial action. To make matters worse, the household notices that drainage from within the house is becoming slower, Suspecting that the "pipes are clogged." One of the commercial preparations is crystal powder or liquid from with a strong acid base is used to declass the pipes.

This treatment may or may not from a temporary narrow opening in the sewer pipe, but when the strong chemical gets to the tank, it promptly kills what few bacteria are left, at tempting to survive on the small amount of sewage not completely wrapped in sold grease.

The damage has now become twofold. Bacterial action in the tank has been slowed while grease packs the tank, obstructing both the inlet and outlet. Because of the light density of the grease, it remains near the top of the tank thus jeopardizing the drainfield during heavy surges.

The Septic tank is a patented invention, relatively new in concept (patented in London, England, around 1900). You have not had to pay a sewer tax (ask your friends whose homes are connected to sewers about theses charges) and that magic box under your yard has done is job economically and safely. However certain precautions must be taken to protect the system.
Any leaks that develop in the plumbing fixtures should be corrected immediately. A leaking faucet or toilet tank, no matter how small the leak, eventually will result in complete saturation and failure of the drainfield.

Most communities have septic tank contractors who can inspect your system periodically, Just be sure the contractor is licensed and reputable. Any Florida septic tank contractor (those who install, repair, modify, maintain or pump on-site sewage disposal systems) must be registered with the Florida Department of Health. He or she mush have passed an examination and must renew his or her registration annually by attending a minimum of six hours of education, An other reliable check is to determine that your contractor is a member of the Florida Septic Tank Association.

Master Septic Tank Contractor status provides additional privilege to contractors who complete 30 hours of classroom training and pass a comprehensive examination. The voluntary program offers expertise in soil evaluation, use of aggregate material, system design, awareness of rules covering installation and maintenance of on-site sewage treatment and disposal systems. County health departments have names of Master Septic Tank Contractors available.

Q. Should I put a cake of yeast in my septic tank?
A. No! As long as human waste continues to be

flushed and drained into he septic tank, nothing else need be added. Yeast is of no value.

Q. Do I need to add bacteria to my septic tank after a pump out?

A. No. The human waste from your body will provide all the bacteria necessary.

Q. Can a clogged drainfield be repaired by cleaning or the infusion of enzymes?

A. Most drainfield failures will need replacement. The only way to evaluate the cause of the problem
is an on-site inspection by a registered septic tank contractor. While some advertisers claim enzymes, and chemical treatment will revitalize a drainfield there is no conclusive data to support their long term effectiveness.

Q. How often should I have my septic tank pumped out?

A. The intervals vary from home to home. A septic tank should be opened and inspected every two to three years by your septic tank contractor. He will determine whether or not it needs pumping by viewing the condition of the tank.

Q. Is it all right to flush sanitary napkins down a commode serviced by a septic tank?

A. No. These napkins are made of cellulose, a non-biodegradable product (the bacteria in the tank can not work on this type of material). As a matter of fact, the less paper of any kind flushed down the commode, the better.

Q. Is it OK to have a garbage disposal in a kitchen that is connected to a septic tank?

A. Yes. But extreme care should bed exercised not to allow grease or non-biodegradable products such as fruit or vegetable peelings to get into the disposal system.

Q. Can I plant trees or shrubbery over my septic tank or drainfield.

A. Try not to do this. If the tree or bush has a strong root system, it can choke your drainfield. Roots can also get into the septic tank, reducing its capacity and possibly blocking the inlet or outlet.

• Sluggishness when flushing toilet.
• Any plumbing backups.
• Gurgling sounds in the plumbing.
• Grass in the yard growing faster and greener in one particular area.
• Ground mushy underfoot. Obnoxious orders inside or outside.
• Low spots beginning to appear in yard Any of the above symptoms have occurred.

There are occasions when, for one reason or another, a septic tank system is not feasible. Of course, the first is when a sewer is available. But even when a sewer is not available, there might be other considerations ( abnormal high water table, lot restrictions, etc.) that make a standard septic tank installation impossible. Following are some on-site disposal systems that may be used instead of the normal septic system:

Mound systems (see earlier reference).

Aerobic systems, These replace septic tanks where space restrictions, very poor soil conditions or the need for higher level treatment mitigate against the use of septic tanks. These systems do require power and use aerators and filters. Obviously, they present additional maintenance challenges.

Low pressure systems. Basically these involve the use of a modified septic tank called an interceptor tank. The overflow from the tank is automatically pumped through small diameter lines to a treatment facility or to an adjacent gravity sewer. This system also requires electrical power, but is extremely helpful in areas with overloaded treatments plants.

Most restaurants have or should have a grease trap which conforms generally in size and shape to a septic tank. This is true whether the restaurant is in a sewered area or is serviced by a septic tank system.
A periodic maintenance program is essential. Grease from sinks and floor drains goes directly into the grease traps and unless it is pumped out on a regular schedule, it will cause problems inside the restaurant,m as well as in septic systems and treatment plants.

Grease is difficult to treat. How often it is pumped out can be established by inspections (by qualified septic tank contractors). by the volume of business, by the type of foods being prepared and served and by habits practiced by kitchen personnel.

Once the interval pump out time has been established (some restaurants require monthly pump outs: others are done quarterly), the schedule should be followed closely. The results will be gratifying and money saving, leading to a minimum of clogged plumbing lines or backups. The schedule will protect against costly drainfield replacements for those on septic systems.

We hope we have enlightened you about this very integral part of your home. As you have read, the septic tank needs care and maintenance just as much as our appliances, roof, floors, wails, heating and air conditioning. The consequences of lack of care can be very unpleasant. An inspection or pump out are reasonable prevention. Replacing a drainfield can be very expensive.
Remember, despite what you have heard to the contrary, if your house is served by a septic you have a modern, economical sanitary system to dispose of your waste.

Check with your county health department about permit requirements before constructing, repairing or modifying your septic system. Ask for the registration number of any contractor and verify it through the county health department before you sign a contact.

All pumps trucks are required to prominently and permanently display the name of the company, its phone number, the gallon capacity of the truck and truck permit number. Step outside and check out the truck. Yes, all companies engaged in pumping septage in Florida must be registered and properly dispose of all waste.

Protect the investment your property and your family's health. Ask questions and deal with people trained to do the job right.

Do not abuse your septic system and it will not abuse you.

The Florida Septic Tank Association is an organized group of those engaged in the manufacturing, installation, repair or maintenance of septic tanks, plus firms that service and supply the industry. Members are dedicated to protecting the health of Florida's residents and maintaining the environment through sound ecological practices. They attempt to improve he quality of septic tank products and installation procedures and furnish information to be public and health authorities.